1^st April At Home

Apart from a four-day trip to Sydney in January – where we hadn't been for 20 years or so - we have been at home in Castlemaine for the past few months.

It has been a hot summer, either hotter than usual or I'm feeling the heat more. We had a couple of days away in the motorhome – not far away at all – after we'd lent it to Geoff and Loll to see if they were happy to drive it to Darwin in July. As it turned out, they had no problem at all but didn't want to drive it there.

So I wondered in my mind what we'd do about that. But now, after Israel and America's war on Iran disrupting the world's oil supplies, everything is doubtful. So it's all on hold.

What is not on hold is our Auswalk trip to the Flinders Ranges, booked months ago. The motorhome is full of diesel, giving it a range of ~1,000km; we hope to be able to access a bit more to get us there, and then enough more to get us home again.

But.. it's been a good few months, despite lots of watering and the fruit crop (both at our house and in Castlemaine generally) being poor. Why? Probably the weather. I find fruit trees a bit of a mystery.

We did manage to have Andrew the plumber come and move our HWS, which had been sited so the little recess of the house behind it was completely inaccessible. Now it is much better. And to follow up we put in a drainage pit with a pipe down to the creek, which needed a trench dug ~ nine metres long and 600mm deep by the time it got to the creek edge. Thank goodness we have a jackhammer! Now we wait for heavy rain to make sure that the problem we had (water seeping into a corner of the pantry) is fixed. I can't see that it wouldn't be.

We also put drains in at the bottom of the creek to stop it washing away down into next door's property.

Visits to Melbourne have been not quite as regular, thanks to Elsy sending us to “Siberia” after Gae's visit (why? Unknown!) and Alice and Sidharth having their next daughter, Samira. An elective Caesarian a few days early, so I ended up driving them down to the hospital, while Alison looked after Rose till Liz and Steven came up from Geelong to take over. All went smoothly and so far they are having a much less stressful time than they did with Rose, two years ago.

Friday 3^rd April California Gully, near Stawell

Now, we have left on our trip. The last few days have been quite busy, though, and we didn't drive out till after midday today.

Wednesday saw us go down to Melbourne on the train (all public transport free for the month of April because of the fuel situation); Alice and Sidharth and Rose and Samira came and visited in the afternoon, Alison went to circus on the train, I scraped and oiled another section of the terrace – finishing up just as it was getting too dark to do it.

We got up on Thursday, Alison went out for coffee with Pauline, I gave the terrace another coat; and we walked down to Southern Cross, had a coffee, and got on the train home to Castlemaine. Here, we walked home via Woolworths, getting home at 3.30pm; just in time to go over to Sue's next door for afternoon tea. Then, after a few moments back home, we went out in the car, filled it with petrol, and went to the Chewton film.

We had lunch at 9pm, after the film; and after missing lunch because we were on the train. A very strange day meal-wise and quite busy as well.

So this morning, we were not in a hurry. It's a cold day; long pants all day. Also, it's Good Friday, so all the shops are shut. The traffic is traditionally heavy on Good Friday, but for us it was not.

We packed the van for the trip, cleaned the house and left everything ready to come home to, had a late morning tea, and drove away. Lunch in Avoca, and we stopped for the night (at 3.30pm) at California Gully, just past Stawell on the Western Highway. A fair amount of road noise but a reasonable spot with, so far, one other vehicle.

We sat and read in the late afternoon sun for an hour before the cold wind forced us inside. And it was cold; we both had to put on jumpers. But we did try out the now aerial-less TV with firestick attached; connected to a hotspot on one of our phones, it worked like a charm and we watched the ABC news.

It got colder. And we ended up going to bed at 9.30pm – much earlier than is the norm for us.

Saturday 4^th April Lake Indawarra, Tintinara, SA

After last night's early bedtime, we slept – till 8am! 10½ hours! I suppose we needed it. We got up to a cold morning, and drove (with the heater on) the 40km or so to Horsham for breakfast. We started with topping up with diesel (nearly $3/litre, but no problem getting it) before heading to the Botanic Gardens, They were fenced all around, with no vehicle access; we ended up parking near the Wimmera River, breakfasted, walked along the river and then through the gardens.

And into town. We went first to the huge “Cellarbrations Superstore” we'd been to last time we were here; it had a very extensive range which had not become smaller – even stocking Alison's favoured Mandarin liqueur, which I have failed to find anywhere else. And after a walk around town – no cafes open - and buying oranges in Coles, we headed off.

Along to Dimboola, which the highway now skirts. We went in and had a coffee at the bakery. The day had warmed up, and I changed into shorts and put my jumper away. We went to the toilets there and found hot showers there as well! As we'd not had one since leaving home – it had been too cold – we had a shower before continuing.

Stopped in Nhill to buy “The Age”, stopped in Kaniva for lunch, crossed over into SA; through Bordertown and Keith, and we've stopped well off the highway at a lovely quiet camping area in Tintinara, next to Lake Indawarra – a small lake we suspect used to be a quarry. It's a nice spot; we read the paper in the sun before going for a walk around the lake.

It's the last day of Daylight Saving, and there are barbecues here; so we've cooked our boneless chicken on the barbecue, eaten it at a table outside; and now the sun's gone down. Our clock says 7.40, but tomorrow it will be 6.20. No dinner outside!

We are eating super-yummy dessert (Xmas pudding with custard) inside.

Sunday 5^th April Spring Gully Conservation Park, near Clare

We slept till 7am – 8.30 old time, for us. It was a very good spot for the night. Had breakfast, and, in a leisurely fashion, drove back out onto the Dukes Highway.

Limestone country. Lots of white rocks and white gravel, and low scrub. We came into Tailem Bend an hour or so later, made a detour into the town centre (it's not a very big town centre) where there was an open bakery. We had a coffee with a beesting; very pleasant.

We were getting close to Adelaide; less than 100km. On to the turnoff to Murray Bridge (after we'd crossed the Murray on a new bridge), and in to fill up with diesel. Here, we had a little incident; Alison was driving, and, flustered by a car behind here, scraped a bit of the driver's side at the gas bottle door. While there is a little dint in the side, I think a bit of car polish will largely fix it.

But it didn't do anyone's equanimity any good. We parked and went into a Drake's supermarket (which seems to be what Woolworths is called here). All we wanted was four oranges, but the only option was a 3kg bag. We left and went, successfully, to Coles instead.

There was no reason to stay longer; we drove north, towards Mt. Pleasant and the Barossa Valley. Gone were the wide, straight roads; narrow, winding, up and down instead. There was lots of driving between avenues of trees nearly meeting overhead, with no wire rope barriers as Victoria would have had. It looks so much better without them!

A walk around a lovely playground in Angaston, then up to Eden Valley lookout for lunch. (Being off the highway, finding good spots to stop has not been as easy.)

On towards Clare, wondering about where we'd find for tonight. Alison found Spring Gully Conservation Park, just south of Clare; we drove in towards it on a narrow, steep in parts, rough dirt road. We got to a better road, but also lots of private properties; after a bit of driving around we found a sign to the park and then another to Blue Gum lookout.

And this is where we're staying. Well off a main road, in the bush, on our own (after a couple of day visitors left.)

We went on a short walk to the Cascades (which only flow when it rains); had a glass of wine at a picnic table overlooking the valley; and retired inside when it became colder and darker. Now it's 6.30pm and it is fully dark outside. And we're warm inside, with good lighting; there are a few drops of rain, and I'm not very concerned about the little scrape we had. We'll tidy it up later.

Monday 6^th April Murray Town

It was lovely and quiet last night at the lookout; I slept very well, but woke up at dawn – about 6.30am – and got up soon after. There was a wonderful view from bed out the windscreen – you could see Spencer Gulf and the Eyre Peninsula beyond the magnificent huge trees.

It was early. No hurry. But eventually we left, and drove (on much better roads than we'd driven in on) into Clare. It was quite a big town, very touristy; we passed a huge caravan park on the way in which was packed! (It's the last day of the Easter break – we passed hundreds of caravans heading south, back home, today as we drove north.)

We parked in Clare and did brain drain. We'd prefer to use a library, but it's a public holiday. Afterwards we rewarded ourselves with a coffee and cake (and although I chose one not gluten-free and not dairy-free, it was a bit disappointing.) But they did have papers; we read the “Adelaide Advertiser” which seems to be a clone of the “Sun”.

Out of Clare. North along a more minor up and down road, through wheat fields which were quite green – lovely to see. Spalding was very small and we didn't stop; we kept on west, across to Crystal Brook. Another small town, but it had a lovely wide main street with a wide median strip. We stopped for lunch next to the railway line and saw the (very long) Indian Pacific train go through.

We'd decided to go over to the coast of the Spencer Gulf; it's not a great detour from a direct route to the Flinders Ranges. So we drove into Port Pirie, solely to top up with diesel; prices get higher, further north. Filling up today was uneventful except for a minor difficulty getting out of the town again.

On to Port Germein, to walk out it's very long wooden pier. But... pier closed; since last May, after storm damage; “awaiting assessment and repair.” The tide was out; we wandered out next to the pier for perhaps 100 metres, where there were steps leading onto the pier. Not closed. We walked on, but at the third lot of steps (the water getting deeper now – our shoes off) up we went and out to the end.

And back. I'm not an engineer, but from my observations of the old wooden piles I think the chances of the pier being repaired and reopened are close to zero.

Back in the van, we looked up staying in Mt. Remarkable National Park – but entry fee + camping fee comes out at $47! So, no. We looked at alternatives and come inland, along a lovely windy road through the mountains, to Murray Town. A tiny town with a very nice quiet camping area at their sports ground. Here, we are paying – but $15 / night, a much more reasonable price.

We've had a shower and are clean and relaxed.

Tuesday 7^th April Between Quorn and Hawker

Last night, Murray Town, was a top spot! We woke to a warm morning, had another shower; and were in no hurry to leave. But we did; though the pretty mountain-biking town of Melrose, under Mt. Remarkable, and on to Wilmington.

It was time for our morning coffee, but... Wilmington has no cafe. We went and chatted in their Op Shop, but soon continued on to Quorn; which has three cafes, and the one we went to was good. And had a walk around town, which is not very big

We did brain drain in the van, then drove over to the Lion's Park. After a drive around the camping area ($20/night, for no facilities) we went to the day use area and had lunch. While we were doing this, it suddenly became colder, with a few drops of rain. What now?

We went to the library (situated at the school, but by now school was over for the day) and did brain drain – again! To get it out of the way for the week. It is much better doing it in the library.

Alison found a prospective place to prop for the night – a piece of old road, at a Kanyaka Creek, halfway up to Hawker. So there we went, through country which was green. Very green. So different to last ime we were here! But the spot turned out to be not so good; tracks off the road, but with “No Shooting – No Camping” and “Private Property” signs. So we drove up the good gravel road opposite, and have stopped next to the road. No traffic on this road, so far.

We walked down to the creek and the bridge at dusk. A very pretty creek with lots of pools of water.

We've cooked and eaten the last of our vegies, because Auswalk starts tomorrow and they will feed us for the next week.

There has been light rain, giving me the willies a bit as, while the road is fine, where we are parked just off it would not be so easy to get out of if it got very wet.

Wednesday 8^th April Angorichina

There was another light spell of rain after we went to bed, but nothing more. We woke to a fine morning, and driving out was no problem. It was a good spot for the night – there was no traffic at all on our road – but 400m down the main road, we came to an official parking spot! So it goes.

A little further we stopped at the ruins of Kanyaka Station, which was a big settlement in the late 1800's. And with the green countryside (as it is now, after rain) all around, you can see why! But it was abandoned after some years of drought.

Soon after, we got to Hawker. The main town of the Flinders Ranges, but smaller than Quorn. We walked around it, had a coffee in the nice big cafe there, walked up to the old station past the huge old Railway Dam (built for steam locomotives); then continued on to Rawnsley Park Station, where we are leaving the van for a week while we are looked after by Auswalk.

We parked the van near reception, where it will stay for a week. It will be very easy for us to access when we are back here. And went and did a load of washing – and drying, as it's been raining on and off all day. Then, a big pack-up; we are being transferred to Angorichina this afternoon, and need to take everything we may need with us (Though we'll be back here in a couple of days – for one night only.)

We had lunch in the van – out of the rain – picked up the washing, and think we are ready to go and spend a week walking now. But with an hour to spare before pickup, we walked over towards the shop – 1.3km away, said the sign. But we sidetracked to the eco-villas, then found the shop was in fact 2km away, and never got there. But we did see that Rawnsley Park is a big tourist destination; lots of cabins of various sizes, and a caravan park as well.

At 3.30, the next part of the trip began. We were picked up by Caroline, from Angorichina, and driven north for over an hour to Blinman. She was giving a lift to Hamish, who was going to Blinman, too. The whole of the rolling hills and mountain ranges were bright green. It was a very pretty trip. (For us – but not so for the family we stopped to help after they'd had a tyre blowout. A new 4WD, and they didn't know how to extract the spare tyre from under the vehicle. After a lot of looking up instructions, and looking under the car, it was worked out; and we left them to finish the job.

We got to the Blinman Hotel soon after 5pm. This is where we are having dinner, but the kitchen opens at 5.30. So, rather than sit and have a drink, we went for a walk up to the remains of the Blinman Copper Mine above town. An interesting walk. Back at the hotel just before 6pm, dinner (a fairly standard pub dinner) and Caroline collected us and drove us the 15km to Angorichina (in the dark, but it looked like a scenic road) and deposited us in our cabin here.

It's a quite reasonable very basic cabin. There are various food supplies and she handed us each a salad for tomorrow's lunch; we've added some boiled eggs. And unpacked, and packed daypacks for tomorrow.

There is no phone or internet reception here, and the TV has a satellite set-top box allowing a number of news programs – none of which are in South Australia.

We were both a bit stuffed and fell into bed soon after 9pm.

Thursday 9^th April Angorichina

Our first day's walking. A warm day of 29º predicted. We woke before the 7am alarm, and had plenty of time to eat a very basic breakfast before Dave arrived at 8.30 to drive us 3½ km down the road to Parachilna gorge, and the beginning of the Heysen Trail. While we are very aware of how green the whole area is, it was a surprise to see running water in the creek there. Only a little bit of water, but still....

On with the fly net, and off we went. Along the creek for a while, then out and along a track; and along the creek again. Lots of lovely big gums in the creek, lots of cypress pines out of it; lots of saltbush. The country varied as we walked through, but we didn't see any animal life. The weather varied a bit too, with drops of rain here and there; at one stage it became heavy enough to put on our pack covers, but as soon as we did – it stopped.

One thing we needed to know was how accurate the times in our booklet were; it seems they are generally good, with our pace average to fast.

We stopped for our morning coffee (Alison was carrying the thermos) after 1½ hours; not quite as relaxing as it may have been because of the flies; to eat or drink meant lifting the fly net.

We didn't stop for lunch till we'd finished 3 of the 4 sections of the day's walk, and had got to the high point. It had been gradually uphill all the way. Fortunately the flies are interested in us, not our food – which they generally ignored.

Then, it was downhill to arrive at Aroona Ruins – another sheep station from the 1800's, now abandoned. On the way we saw a wheel cactus just off the track, and went and pulled it up, and left it in the middle of the track. I hope it doesn't survive.

It was just before 3pm when we got to Aroona, with our pickup due at 4pm. So we wandered around the ruins, looked at the very good views, and old pole and pug hut still standing there.

Caroline arrived at 4pm, took us to the Blinman hotel again for dinner. We'd thought we'd be cooking ourselves a barbecue at home today, but no. So we sat and looked at our options for tomorrow; do the full 25km walk or a shorter 14km. I'd assumed we'd just do the longer one, but Caroline told us that the last part of it was not very interesting at all. The walk notes seem to agree with her. So, not being purists, we've opted for the shorter walk, giving us more time both in the morning and back at Rawnsley Park in the afternoon.

Friday 10^th April Rawnsley Park

We had a bit of time to wander around Angorichina Village this morning, before Caroline picked us up at 8.30am. We are the only guests at present – the fuel situation due to America's Iran war has meant lots of cancellations. And while the accommodation, though not up to Auswalk's usual standard, is satisfactory – there is little alternative up here.

It took another hour to return us to Aroona Ruins; we were dropped off, and off we went. The first 8km was along the Yulana walk; it was really nice and scenic, along a narrow footpad up through cypress pines, through a gorge; and down again to a creek, where we had our first break. It was very clear that the vegetation etc. now that we are in National Park, is much more impressive than yesterday's.

On again. Here the track went steadily up, and the trees thinned out; after a false summit or two we got to the Brachina lookout. Great views all around, especially over to the Heysen Range. Then back down again, getting to the remains of Monela hut, next to a creek with magnificent huge gums. We stopped here for lunch.

The way on was different; a number of small creek crossings, but in many ways it was like walking across a golf course; mostly level and wide, and it was so green! We got to the Trezona trailhead ~ 2.45pm.

(Just before the end, we passed the “Golden Spike” - a marker of geological periods, and the only one in the Southern Hemisphere.)

The flies were much better today; perhaps because it was much cooler – very good walking weather – and the humidity has dropped.

Caroline drove in to pick us up at 3.20 pm – a tad early, but we were ready – and took us back down to Rawnsley Park again. Another hour's drive.

Here, we are staying in a flash new unit; a big step up from last night. Much better breakfast provisions; and we have phone and internet reception again as well! The only downside – it was a long walk from reception. So I walked back and drove the van down. It's much easier to do a re-pack with the van just outside.

We've had a good shower and sorted things out well.

They fed us a very good dinner in the Woolshed Restaurant.

Saturday 11^th April Wilpena

This is our third day of walking, and for the first time both of us feel a bit stuffed.

Neither of us slept so well. No reason – though I seem to have a (very minor) cold. We got up, had a good breakfast in our unit – they provided very reasonable supplies – packed our bags for two days away, re-packed stuff into the van, drove it back up to the office and parked it there again.

Shane was waiting for us; it was the best part of an hour's drive up to today's starting point, at Yanyanna Hut. He was very informative – he used to work as a tour guide – and stopped to show us some ferns which survive here, and moss which changed colour when you added water.

We set off at 8.45am; there was another couple on the track ahead of us. We're not used to this – up to now, we've not seen another soul! We let them get ahead; but then we passed them anyway. They had full packs.

The first part was up; then down along a creek; it was very scenic and the walking was good.After a little break we continued on the next section, going up to Bunyeroo Lookout, where had morning tea. (The others caught us up here, just as we were taking a selfie – so we got them to do it instead, with a much better result.)

Then it was down again, along a creek – and across to a 4WD track. Here, the enjoyment part of the walk faded; we walked along it for 2½ hours, stopping for lunch at the 1 hour mark. Then, eventually, the gate marking the end of that section appeared, and we had a snack and a rest. It was very pleasant.

Only another hour on to Wilpena! And along a pleasant track through pine forest, where at last we saw some emus. But, Wilpena was a long time coming.

At last we got to the back of the caravan park; we had to walk through it to the information centre. But where was it? A rabbit warren of tracks, but at last we found a bitumen road.

Ikara Resort is 300m down the road. Reception is at the far end. It seemed like a long way, but then found that our safari glamping tent was a ~200m walk back into the caravan park and – we're getting used to it.

The tent is fine – it has a lovely view out the front windows, a split to warm it, a good hot shower... but very poor lighting.

We went for a walk, had a shower, and went out to a lovely dinner. It's quite cold outside, tonight.

Sunday 12^th April Wilpena

We slept well in this king-size bed. But it's a bit weird and I think we'll both be happy to be back in our double bed again. At least you know you're sleeping with someone, there.

The buffet breakfast here was good. Despite taking our time, it was still only 8.35am when we set out for today's walk, up to St. Mary Peak, returning through Wilpena Pound. The walk notes said the best way to get to the track was to go over the fence outside our glamping tent, and turn right when we found the track. But before we found the track, I remembered we'd left our walking poles behind. Today is not the day to not have poles. I went back and got them.

Today was cool. Not needing-to-wear-a-jumper cool, but cooler than it's been. The other difference was – no flies! I didn't use my fly net at all.

The track went gradually uphill – for a while. Then it went more steeply uphill, usually straight up the face of the mountain, with lots of rock climbing. It was quite hard work; but as we got higher we had good views of where we've walked down the Heysen and ABC ranges, and especially where we walked yesterday afternoon.

Eventually we got to Tanderra Saddle, and had a break before heading off on the 2.6km return side trip off to St. Mary Peak. Only 1.3km each way, but it was a hard rock-climbing track; in the end we got to the peak, which we had to ourselves. Meeting other walkers on the trip has been a rare occurrence. At the summit, views were excellent despite the cloudy conditions.

Descending was quicker. And here, we passed another five groups on their way up; they were not going to have it all to themselves. One of them commented that "You are rock stars!" - which I think means we look too old to be doing things like this.

Back at the saddle, we had lunch; then started down the longer way back, through Wilpena Pound. You could see this track descending at a steady rate; it looked like the better option. And perhaps it was, but it was still a rough rocky track for a long time. We got to the bottom of the pound, and the track did improve, but rocks still were a prominent feature.

We walked across some wide grassy areas, but not an emu nor kangaroo was to be seen. Eventually we got to the historic Hill Homestead – locked – and then eventually found the path to take us back to the trailhead – walking beside the creek which was full of fallen dead trees, the result of a fire, then flood, over 40 years ago! I don't think I've ever seen so much fallen dead wood.

It was ~5pm when we got back. Over 8 hours out walking. It has been a long, hard day; but neither of us feels as stuffed as we were yesterday.

And we can have a sleep-in tomorrow.

Monday 13^th April Rawnsley Park

We did sleep in, but not for long After going and having a leisurely breakfast, packing all our stuff up, lugging it the 900m down to reception – it was 8.35 when we left. Under a blue sky, not yesterday's clouds. After a little trouble finding the trailhead, off we went. Back along the creek we'd finished on yesterday, to the Hill Homestead. Still locked.

Auswalk said the 1.2km return walk up to Wangara lookout was worthwhile, so there we went. It was worthwhile, though we've seen so many good views recently that this one fits in in a minor way.

Back down, we left the crowds behind and set off back on the Heysen Trail, south across the floor of the pound. It was along a 4WD track, but – perhaps because it was early in the day – it was a very pleasant walk. Despite seeing no wildlife. Lots of green, as usual; through gum trees at first, then cypress pines, and then mallee as we ascended to Bridal Gap. The ascent was quite gradual, but the path underfoot became very rocky. Not such an easy surface to walk on.

We got to the top of the gap ~ 12.30, and stopped for our lunch there. I rang Rawnsley Park to tell them we were setting off, so our pick-up will be synchronised.

The flies began to reappear and I continued on, wearing my fly net. It was a steep and rocky descent at first, then a rocky path, across a green flat area, into a creek. The track went down the creek, for ½ hour or more; and it was made more complicated by the creek having flowing water, which wandered from one side to the other. We had to check with the app on the phone to make sure where we were, a couple of times; but eventually got to the pick-up point, where a road ran into / across the creek. We found a log to sit on, in the shade, and had a drink; but the the Rawnsley Park car arrived, and Craig drove us back. We were only waiting a few minutes!

Our bags from Wilpena were sitting outside reception; we went in, and found we are in Unit 41 – the furthest one away. We like this – less passing traffic. (Except for excited chidren on bicycles at dusk, using the dirt road on from here as a BMX track!) We drove the van down, each ate a drumstick icecream from its freezer; unpacked, showered, and put on clean clothes. The bags we've been using are packed away, and if we need something now, we go to the van for it.

I was able to connect the box computer up to the television, in this unit.

It is very comfortable here. It was a much easier day today than the past few.

Tuesday 14^th April Rawnsley Park

Today is our last day of walking – and the shortest, at 4-5 hours. Rawnsley Bluff and Wilpena lookout. Despite this, our drive to the car park at the start of the walk was scheduled for 8am; and we set off at 8.15, our earliest starting time yet.

It was a gradual uphill walk across to the base of the bluff; a bright sunny day, and we wanted to get into the bluff's shadow, both for cooler air and for no flies. Eventally we did, and this let to a very steep and very rocky ascent to get onto the top of the plateau.

The walking was easier here, but the paths were narrow with trees and bushes which often I had to duck under, and often scraped me.

Wilpena lookout had a good view over the pound; Rawnsley Bluff had a very tall cairn, but not much of a view; views were better on the walk back along the plateau. Even so, my feeling is that it was quite a strenuous walk to views which were good, but not as good as others we've had recently.

We returned back down. The walk notes had us walk from the carpark, along the road to the caravan park, and then home. I don't quite know why; it was a longer way home, with no obvious benefit. So it goes. I dropped off the Auswalk EPIRB at the office.

It was 1pm when we got home. We'd left our packed lunches here – we thought we'd be back by lunchtime – but we were quite hungry. We ate them (they weren't so nice) and did little else for a while. But then – we put on a load of washing, I had a (very quick) swim in the pool, a shower, clean clothes.

The van has been largely readied for leaving tomorrow; walking boots and poles are packed away. Washing's done. A last dinner here; but we know what's on the menu, as we've already tried a lot of dishes.

Wednesday 15^th April Morgan

This morning, for a change, there was absolutely no need to get up early. So we slept in for as long as possible.

Despite this, by 8.30am we were breakfasted, packed up, checked out of Rawnsley Park, and on out way. We went straight through Hawker, took the road to Orrorroo, and stopped for a coffee at "Two Farmers Daughters" where we've been before. It was a bit disappointing; busy cafe, but the coffee small and not so nice, and a bit pricey. Oh well.

The, we went to Jamestown, a place we've never been. Stopped in their main street (the widest main street I've ever seen!), managed to find the library, did brain drain; walked back and bought some fresh rolls for lunch. And some broccoli for dinner.

We drove on and ate lunch in Mount Bryan, then past Burra and into Morgan, on the Murray River. We stopped at the riverside park to work out where we'd go for somewhere for the night; river crossing is by ferry, so we have to choose. We chose south, crossed the river, and very soon after found a nice quiet spot by the river in Morgan Conservation Park. Being school holidays, we thought it may have been very busy, but it seems just the opposite. Maybe the fuel crisis from the Iran war has done it.

Alison made a yummy dinner. It is so nice to be eating our own food again! A week of pub / restaurant food is too long.

Thursday 16^th April Robinvale

Today has been, not surprisingly, a driving day. Despite "sleeping in" we were on our was just after 8am. A brief stop in Waikerie, where we had a (disappointing) coffee which came with a (very good) anzac biscuit, on their warm sunny terrace, before 8.30am! Very early for us.

Then, along into Renmark where we stopped at the library to do brain drain. It turned out not to be a great time, because in the 40 minutes we were there it filled up with masses of pre-school children and their parents; making masses of noise. It didn't make it any easier, but it got done.

We'd seen diesel at a good price on the way in, so went and filled up. Now we have enough to get home with no problem. Then parked in the main street, ate our last icecreams, walked to the op shop; and left again.

Off across the border into Victoria again. We stopped for lunch at a lovely park next to Lake Cullulleraine, then went straight through Mildura, across the bridge into NSW, and down to cross back into Victoria at Robinvale.

And at ~4.30pm we found another good quiet spot on the Murray River just outside Robinvale. A little walk, a long chat to Liz on the phone...

It's been a lovely warm sunny day, with the temperature up to 29º. But I think this will be ending soon.

Friday 17^th April Home

This was a lovely quiet spot for the night. It was our last day, so we didn't hurry; and when we left, we drove back the few km into Robinvale, where we'd never been. Found a special "No Parking – Motorhomes excepted" spot, and had a stroll down the main street. It's quite a pretty town, with two large Asian supermarkets in the main street, and a few other smaller Asian shops. And the main street is not very long!

But we had a way to go. On to Swan Hill, which was bigger than I remembered – though we were limited, then, in having come by train with our bicycles. We had a little walk around – first to Boo's Cafe (much better, and much cheaper, than the Orrorroo one), a closing down store, an op shop; and we withdrew some money at ATM's. We've spent hardly a cent so far this trip, but being home it will change.

On to  Kerang. We stopped at the library, finished off brain drain for the week, and at lunch of reheated hot cross buns. We would have stayed longer, but needed to get to Bendigo by 5pm and time was getting short. Bendigo still 130km away.

On. We got to the wood heater shop by 4.30, picked up our pre-ordered new glass for the Morso heater; and went on to Lansell Plaza. We were going to fill up with diesel there, but ... they'd run out of it. So back into town to the next option, and, full of diesel, we drove back home and parked the van in its spot just before full darkness fell.

Despite living in the van for seven days, we never had to refill it's water tank!

It's been a good trip; we've driven more than we are used to (2,200km in the seven days we drove) but that was worth it for the Auswalk walk in the green Flinders Ranges.